If you’re zooming through southwestern Montana on I-15, take some time to head east at the Moose Creek Road exit. A few miles up the ever-narrowing gravel road, you’ll catch your first glimpse of nearly white granite towering above the treetops.

This is a sign that you’re approaching Humbug Spires Primitive Area, a lush pocket of shade and running water characterized by rolling hills of 250-year-old Douglas fir. Above it all towers fifty majestic granite spires, nine of which rise 300-600 feet above their surroundings.

Most travel within Humbug is in the riparian areas along Moose Creek and its tributaries, or along the ridge tops. Although a few established hiking trails exist in some of the more prominent drainages, most of the area remains undeveloped. But numerous game trails and cross country openings are just waiting for the more adventurous hiker.

Moose Creek, which the road begins following shortly after leaving the interstate, is a delight. A tributary of the Big Hole River, it supports populations of brook, rainbow and cutthroat trout in its lower reaches, and cutthroat only in its upper portions. Steep waterfalls form a barri ...[continued]